Paris Challenge

In the centre of the Ile de France region is Paris, the capital of France and one of Europe's most beautiful cities. When I think of Paris, I immediately imagine the Eiffel Tower, The Louvre, Notre Dame, and the UNESCO designated banks of the Seine River.

Known by more nicknames than any other major city, Paris is often referred to as the "City of Lights". And it's not surprising, given how stunning it looks when the old-fashioned lamp posts lining the streets are lit up at night. But there's also a more practical reason for the nickname: Paris was one of the first European cities to light up the streets with gas-light lamps. Some also allude to the nickname being associated with the "Age of Enlightenment". No matter its history, Paris is undoubtedly a sight to behold at night, especially when the Eiffel Tower turns on its 20,000 bulbs.

Paris has a long and distinguished history, beginning some 10,000 years ago when the first settlers lived on the banks of the Seine River. Sometime in the 4th century BC, the Celtic tribe Parisii founded a town that was defeated by the Romans in 52 BC. When the Huns, nomadic people from central Asia and Eastern Europe, threatened to invade, Saint Genevieve urged the Parisians not to flee. The Huns went elsewhere, and Saint Genevieve was canonised as the patron saint of Paris.

Clovis I was the first King of the Franks who negotiated with Saint Genevieve to accede Paris to his authority. Although it took a few years, Clovis I finally succeeded and made the city the capital in the early 6th century AD.

Paris has since been through the French Revolution, which many believe was a turning point in its history, the fall of the monarchy with the execution of King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette and the rise of Napoleon Bonaparte. It went through the Hundred Years' War, was at the centre of the bubonic plague, and survived the bombings of the two World Wars.

Through it all, Paris persevered, rebuilt, and is widely known for its mix of architectural styles from Gothic to French Baroque, French Renaissance, and Art Deco. With 20 neighbourhoods referred to as arrondissements, Paris' urban layout is in a spiral pattern starting in the city centre. Aside from famous landmarks and grand buildings, Paris' streets and alleys lead to chic cafes, posh restaurants, and stylish fashion stores.

I could go on about the depth and breadth of this megacity, but I'd really prefer to get going and see what I can discover on my walks, starting with Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile (Triumphal Arch of the Star).

This Neoclassical landmark structure took 30 years to build and was finally inaugurated in 1836. It honours those who fell during the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars. Its walls are adorned with the names of generals and French victories, while its centre contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile is located on a historical axis, a line of significant monuments including Place de Concorde (an obelisk), Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, and Grande Arche de la Defense. Encircled by a vehicular roundabout, the Arc de Triomphe is the meeting point of twelve straight avenues.

In 1885, Victor Hugo, one of France's greatest writers, had his state funeral at the Arc de Triomphe, which Charles Godefroy flew his biplane through in 1919.

Heading west, I entered Bois de Boulogne, a large public park that used to be the former royal hunting grounds. The park is the remnant of an ancient oak forest and is the second-largest park in Paris. During the Hundred Years' War, it was used as a sanctuary and sometimes as a battleground. The Chateau de Bagatelle is located within its grounds and is said to have been constructed in two months due to a wager between Marie Antoinette and her brother-in-law.

Hilly Passy is within the 16th arrondissement and is home to the wealthy residents of Paris. The streets in this upmarket suburb are lined with luxurious restaurants, several museums, and foreign embassies. As I passed through the suburb, I crossed the Seine River onto Ile aux Cygnes. This long, narrow artificial island was created to protect the Pont de Grenelle bridge. At one end of the island is a replica of the Statue of Liberty. It's a quarter of the scale of the larger version in New York City. A plaque and the tablet in its left hand bear the dates of the American Independence Day and the French Bastille Day.

Weaving through the neighbourhoods, I walked past the UNESCO World Heritage Centre headquarters. This specialised organisation of the United Nations was established in 1945 to promote "world peace and security through international cooperation in education, arts, sciences and culture". I have come across hundreds of UNESCO sites throughout my travels, and I appreciate the effort made to protect our natural wonders, significant landmarks, and intangible cultural heritage. The seven storey building forming a three-pointed star was the collaboration of several international architects, and it was opened in 1958.

I ended today's journey at Les Invalides, a large complex of army museums and monuments relating to France's military history. At the centre is the Dome des Invalides, the tallest church in Paris that holds Napoleon Bonaparte's grand tomb. Under the dome, the tomb is contained within a circular crypt surrounded by pillars and relief panels. In the middle is a large sarcophagus placed on a green granite pedestal containing five coffins. Napoleon was laid to rest inside, in his Colonel's uniform, with his hat resting on his legs.

As I left Les Invalides, I strolled down an esplanade lined with elegant low-rise buildings with gorgeous French windows, wooden shutters, and wrought-iron balconies. Grand entrances lead to the apartments within. I could imagine stepping out on one of the balconies on a warm sunny day, taking in the views and watching life pass by.

In Montparnasse, I was taken aback by the only skyscraper in the neighbourhood. Tour Montparnasse is 689ft (200m) tall and built on top of a train station. Erected in the 1970s, it is used as commercial offices, and while most Parisian see it as an eyesore, the observation deck provides spectacular views over the city. The tower's exterior was climbed three times in the last 25 years without any safety devices. An incredible feat that's equally scary to think about.

A short distance from the skyscraper are the Catacombs of Paris, an underground cemetery with walls made of bones and skulls. It is part of a network of tunnels built to connect ancient stone quarries. With more than six million people buried here, its primary purpose was to alleviate the overflow in cemeteries in the late 18th Century. Today it is part of Paris' museum circuit.

Veering north, I walked through the Latin Quarter, famous for its bookshops and the grand Pantheon building inspired by the Pantheon in Rome. A number of prominent personalities are buried here, including the author Voltaire, philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau, singer and dancer Josephine Baker, and physicist Marie Curie.

Back at the Seine River, I crossed the Petit Pont bridge onto Ile de la Cite. A ship-shaped island, it is the historical heart of the city. To the island's west is the 16th century Pont Neuf (New Bridge), the oldest bridge in the city, still in its original form. The French Gothic architecture of Notre-Dame Cathedral occupies a good portion of the southeast side. This stunning cathedral took 180 years to build and is the most recognised symbol of Paris and the French nation. It gained popularity after Victor Hugo wrote his novel 'Notre-Dame de Paris'('The Hunchback of Notre-Dame' in English). It was here that Napoleon crowned himself Emperor, and the liberation of Paris was celebrated in 1944. My favourite part of this cathedral is the spectacular rose windows with their intricate stained glass designs and beautiful combination of colours.

When wandering through Paris, what becomes apparent are the subtle colours in its architecture. Most of the buildings are in their natural stone colours, creating a soft neutral palette, but that doesn't mean that all of Paris is like that. One of the loveliest colourful streets is Rue Cremieux in the 12th arrondissement. The houses and window shutters on this cobblestoned street are painted in gorgeous pastel colors. At the same time, large terracotta pots bring texture and greenery. It is undoubtedly an Instagram-worthy location and a spot for a quiet getaway from the hustle and bustle of the busy city centre.

As I headed for the northeast arrondissements, I found the most delightful green corridor called Coulee Verte Rene-Dumont. This 2.8mi (4.5km) long park was created on a former railway viaduct that was used by freight trains. It is the longest and only elevated park in Europe. It is a wonderful pathway dotted with benches bordered by small trees, shrubs, and plants, including roses, lavender, and wisteria.

Descending from the pathway into a large public park, I continued to Place de la Nation. This small park was infamous for the most active guillotines during the French Revolution. Today, it is often used as a starting point for demonstrations. The centre of it is dominated by a large bronze sculpture called 'Triomphe de la Republique' and is surrounded by flower beds.

I had a lovely stroll through La Campagne a Paris, a housing development founded in 1907 for working-class families. Built on a quarry site, it consists of 92 townhouses with front and rear gardens, a luxury back in those days. It is a pretty location that feels like the countryside, peaceful and serene.

The highlight of this walk is Montmartre, a large hill in the 18th arrondissement. The landmark Sacre-Coeur Basilica sits proudly atop Butte Hill. Accessible via a funicular or on foot, it is visible from many parts of the city. It is dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus and is an important place of worship.

Prominent landmarks are magnificent and full of history, but it's the small places that intrigue me, such as the Clos Montmartre, the last extant vineyard in Paris. Founded in the 12th century, it is owned by the city and today has 30 different types of vines. The annual harvest is celebrated each October with a festival. The wine is then auctioned off, and the proceeds are donated to Montmartre Association.

Winding through the narrow streets, I came across Le Passe, a sculpture of a man stuck in a wall. It is apparently based on a French novel where the character with 'walking through walls' abilities loses his power mid-pass and is eternally frozen in the wall.

Inside a nearby garden square is Les Mus de Je T'aime (the Wall of Love). It comprises 612 tiles with the phrase I Love You written in 250 languages.

Enjoying my strolls through residential streets, I sought out another gorgeous place, Vla Leandre. Inspired by English art-deco architecture, the leafy cobblestone street is lined with townhouses. Before its development, the area was filled with vineyards, rolling hills, and windmills.

Talking about windmills, of the dozen or so that dotted the hill, two survive today, with Moulin de la Galette operating as a restaurant. Of course, many would be familiar with the artificial windmill atop the legendary Moulin Rouge cabaret theatre that is described as "the temple of the French cancan". A not to be missed show, this looks like a fun place to stop and take in the entertainment.

The 9th arrondissement is well known for its theatres, notably the Palais Garnier, an Italian-style opera house. But a delightful little gem is the Passage de Panorama, considered the first covered passage in Paris. Built in 1799, the passage is only 100m long, but it is bustling with cafes, coin collectors, artisans, and other specialty shops.

I zig-zagged my way across the river and strolled past one of the oldest restaurants in Paris. The beautiful and fashionable Le Procope was opened in 1686 by a Sicilian chef. It was once the hub for writers and artists, along with frequent visits by Napoleon and Marie Antoinette. Its interior is reminiscent of the 18th century, with portraits of notable figures adorning its walls.

Not too far from Le Procope is a fantastic corner coffeehouse called Cafe de Flore. It is famous for its celebrity and intellectual patrons, past and present. Opened in the late 19th century, the cafe is one of the oldest in the city. Sitting outside with an espresso, I could imagine a time when renowned figures such as Picasso, Descartes, or Brigitte Bardot would spend time socialising over a coffee in this lovely setting.

Thankful for all the bridges connecting the banks of the Seine, I crossed Pont des Arts and found myself before the striking Louvre Pyramid sitting before the Renaissance architecture of the Louvre Museum. The museum is home to the famous Mona Lisa, painted by Leonardo da Vinci in 1503. This fascinating and enduring work of art is under heavy guard and has an insurance value of $1 billion as of 2023. But Mona Lisa wasn't always safe. In 1911, an employee of the Louvre walked out with the painting tucked under his coat. He was caught a few years later, and the painting was returned to the museum in 1914.

Jardin de Tuileries is a 17th century statue-studded garden that runs alongside the chic Avenue des Champs-Elysees. The avenue is well known for its designer fashion shops, upmarket dining rooms, and many significant monuments.

From here, I went straight to Paris' most iconic landmark, the Eiffel Tower. This 984ft (300m) tall wrought-iron lattice tower was designed by Gustave Eiffel as the centrepiece of the 1889 World Fair. Its design was highly controversial at the time, as many did not believe it was possible to construct it due to its height. Until 1930, it was the tallest building in the world. It was inducted as a UNESCO site in 1991. Of course, a structure like the Eiffel Tower will have some fascinating facts and figures:

• It takes 60 tonnes of paint to cover it from top to bottom.
• The annual vertical race up its 1,710 steps is completed in less than 10 minutes.
• It contains 10,100 tonnes of iron and 2,500,000 rivets.
• As mentioned at the start, it has 20,000 light bulbs.

Perhaps the most humorous story attached to the Eiffel Tower is of con artist Victor Lustig. In 1925, Victor masqueraded as a government official and successfully sold the tower to a scrap metal merchant.

As I marvel at the grandeur of this steel structure, I find a bench where I can sit and absorb all the wonders I enjoyed on this journey. Paris is beautiful. It combines grand landmarks, fabulous neighbourhoods, gorgeous cobblestone streets, cafes frequented by historical figures, pre- and post-modern architecture, and the quiet flow of the Seine River. This is a place to take one's time and explore slowly.

Farewell until the next time.