London Challenge
Date Started: 4/14/23 Date Finished: 5/04/23
London | ||
75mi (121km) | ||
6 Virtual Postcards | ||
12 Landmarks | ||
London, the capital of England and the United Kingdom, is a vibrant and historic city dating back nearly 2,000 years. It was founded in 43 AD by the Romans, who named it Londinium. At first, Londinium was a small military outpost, but given its location on the River Thames, it quickly became an important centre for trade and commerce. By the late 4th century, the Roman Empire was plagued by poor leadership, corruption, a weak military, and significant social problems. It was the beginning of the end of Roman rule, and by the early 5th century, they withdrew from Britain. London fell into rapid decline.
Anglo-Saxon immigrants from northern Europe rose to power for 500 years until the Norman conquest at the Battle of Hastings in 1066 AD. Led by William the Conqueror, the Norman-French army defeated the Anglo-Saxons in a bloody and brutal nine-hour battle. Marching into London, the city surrendered without resistance, and on Christmas day, William was crowned King of England.
After growing steadily through the Middle Ages, London was ravaged by the bubonic plague in the 14th century, then again in 1665 by the Great Plague, followed by the Great Fire in 1666. Despite these disasters, London has always found a way to bounce back. The establishment of the Bank of England in 1694 accelerated London's growth, swiftly becoming the financial capital of the world, a position that was previously held by Amsterdam of the Dutch Republic.
The Industrial Revolution and the expansion of the British Empire led to a population boom in 19th century London. To address the transportation issue in such a sprawling metropolis, London became the first city to develop an underground railway system. Called the London Underground or the Tube, the railway helped commuters living in the city's outskirts travel more efficiently to and from work and connected London to other parts of the country.
By the turn of the 20th century, London was a powerhouse. However, with the onset of World War I, followed by the Great Depression and World War II, London was significantly impacted, with many of its buildings, infrastructure, and people affected by the events. The city was slow to recover until the latter part of the century when new subcultures emerged. The 1970s Punk morphed into the 1980s New Wave, followed by the late 1990s Cool Britannia when British culture was celebrated in fashion, music, and the arts. British pop singer Geri Halliwell from the Spice Girls band is famously remembered for wearing the Union Jack dress at the 1997 Brit Awards.
Today, London is a megacity with a population of over 8 million people. The city is home to a blend of ancient and modern architecture, with iconic landmarks like the Tower of London and Buckingham Palace sitting alongside modern skyscrapers like the Shard and the Gherkin.
As I begin my journey through London, I will first head to Windsor to visit one of the most famous Royal residences, Windsor Castle. It is the largest inhabited castle in the world, with around 500 people working and living on the premises. It is also the longest-occupied royal palace in Europe.
Windsor Castle's chronology spans over 900 years, beginning with its timber construction in the 11th century by William the Conqueror. The fortifications were later replaced with stone when the Round Tower, with stunning countryside views, was added.
The Great Kitchen is the oldest working kitchen in the country. It has been preparing elaborate dinners for 750 years. It is especially renowned for the 30-course banquets during the reign of George IV and Queen Victoria.
West of the Round Tower is the superb St George Chapel. Built in the 14th century, it is the burial place of many British monarchs, including Henry VIII. The most impressive room in the castle is St George's Hall, measuring a staggering 182 ft (55.5m) long. Used as a ceremonial and dining space, the room can accommodate up to 162 guests for a seated banquet.
Since its foundation, the castle has been home to 40 monarchs and was Queen Elizabeth II's favourite royal residence. With her passing, the castle transferred into the care and ownership of King Charles III.
Now I am off to explore the stunning Hampton Court Palace.
Having left Windsor Castle, I passed Frogmore House, a charming country estate built in the 17th century as a home for the royal chaplain. In 1792, it was acquired by Queen Charlotte, wife of King George III, to be used as a private retreat. As an enthusiastic gardener passionate about landscape design, she transformed the estate into a stunning parkland with a large ornamental lake and a walled garden. Two mausoleums inhabit the grounds. The Duchess of Kent Mausoleum is the burial place of Queen Victoria's mother. The Royal Mausoleum is the final resting place for Queen Victoria, her husband Prince Albert, and other royal family members.
For a time, Frogmore House was used as a storage facility for the Royal Collection of art and artifacts. In recent years, it was used for private events and occasionally as a residence for royal family members.
As I walked beside the River Thames, I stopped at the National Trust Runnymede Holding, where a 2,500-year-old yew tree sits on the ancient site of Ankerwycke on the north side. On the south side was Longmede, where the historic Magna Carta document was signed in 1215 AD. Considered the precursor to many modern constitutions and legal systems, the Magna Carta was created by discontented English barons in response to King John's tyrannical rule. It established that the king was not above the law, everyone was entitled to a fair trial, and the rights of free men were to be protected.
I continued heading east to the historic royal palace Hampton Court. It was built in the 16th century by Cardinal Wolsey, a close advisor of King Henry VIII, but when he fell out of favour the king took possession of the palace, expanding it to the grand residence it is today. This beautiful mix of Tudor and Baroque architecture is made of red bricks and contains 1,000 rooms, 60 acres of gardens, and 750 acres of parkland. The Tudor Kitchens are renowned for feeding Henry VIII's court of up to 600 people. It was operated by 200 staff, producing 800 meals a day while keeping the fires by burning 1.3 million logs annually.
Spooky stories are always a bit of fun, so of course, Hampton Court has its own collection of ghost stories with two of Henry VIII's wives said to be haunting the palace. Jane Seymour was his third and most beloved wife. Dying after she gave birth to her son, Jane is said to appear as a pale figure on the stairs that once led to her rooms. She is the only one of Henry's six wives buried with him in Windsor Castle. Catherine Howard, his fifth wife, was executed due to accusations of adultery and treason. Catherine's ghost is said to be running through the palace's gallery, with her screams echoing through the halls. The last story is of numerous sightings of a Grey Lady. This happens to be Sybil Penn, a servant to the Tudor monarchs who nursed Elizabeth I through smallpox. While the Queen recovered, sadly, Sybil caught the pox and died shortly after.
Taking a walk in the gardens, I took my chances navigating the many twists, turns, and dead ends in the UK's oldest surviving hedge maze. Next, I went to the Rose Garden to admire some lovely species, including Rosa 'Gertrude Jekyll'. This pink shrub rose is named after a famous early 20th century horticulturist who created more than 400 gardens in her lifetime. I finished my garden exploration at the Great Vine. This 250-year-old grapevine is the largest in the world measuring 13 ft (4 m) at the base, and the longest rod is 120 ft (36.5m).
Heading north, I will be passing a few more grand houses and look forward to Richmond Park's wildlife.
Passing through Bushy Park, I arrived at Strawberry Hill House, an 18th century Gothic Revival-style villa built by Horace Walpole, a prominent writer and art collector. The villa's unique design intrigued the local inhabitants so much that Walpole allowed tours to be conducted by his housekeeper under strict guidelines. His vast art collection was sold by a descendant in 1842 over the course of a week, dispersing many precious artifacts, including a famous portrait of Henry VIII.
A short distance further north was Marble Hill, a Palladian villa built in 1724 by Henrietta Howard, who was once mistress to King George II. Set back from the banks of the River Thames, the house is surrounded by beautiful riverside parkland and restored gardens. Its compact design became a standard model for Georgian English villas and plantation houses in the American colonies. Henrietta was an intelligent and witty woman who enjoyed corresponding and socialising with prominent writers, artists, politicians, and courtiers. Marble Hill became the centre of Henrietta's intellectual and political circle, entertaining influential friends on a scale that rivalled the royal court. Saved from development in the early 1900s, the house and its grounds are now a public park managed by English Heritage.
Continuing north, I crossed Kew Bridge and entered the expansive Kew Gardens (aka Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew). Designated as a UNESCO site, Kew Gardens was established in 1840. Covering an area of 326 acres, it is home to more than 50,000 living plants, making it one of the world's largest and most diverse botanical collections. Among the gardens' highlights are the glasshouses and conservatories showcasing plants from around the world. King George III's stately home, Kew Palace, is located on the northern edge, while in the centre is the Treetop Walkway affording sweeping views of the gardens. Many hours could be spent wandering these beautifully landscaped gardens dotted with glasshouses, lakes, themed gardens, a pagoda, and former royal homes.
Exiting Lion Gate, I strolled to Richmond Park, one of London's eight Royal Parks. It's pretty extensive, with an area covering 2,500 acres. The park is most famous for the red and fallow deer that can be seen grazing in the open grasslands. Another major attraction is King Henry's Mound. This steep mound is a prehistoric burial chamber from the Bronze Age that was later used as a viewpoint for hunting and falconry. Today, it offers a fabulous view of the Thames Valley to the west and St Paul's Cathedral to the east.
I took a lovely walk through Isabella Plantation to enjoy the tranquility of the woodland garden and the burst of colour emanating from the evergreen azaleas. I sat on a bench under a shady tree next to Thomson's Pond for a rest before I continued towards Wimbledon.
Wimbledon is an affluent residential area in a picturesque village with cafes and boutiques. It is closely associated with the world-famous Wimbledon tennis championships, which occur yearly at the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club.
As I arrived at the Dulwich Picture Gallery, I marvelled at the neoclassical design of the building. Characterised by simple lines with tall ionic columns, the gallery's interior is arranged around a central courtyard with minimal decoration and natural light filtering into the galleries through skylights. The gallery has a permanent collection of more than 600 works of art focusing on 17th and 18th century European art from master painters like Rembrandt, Rubens, and van Dyck.
If there is one certainty in London it is that there is no shortage of parks. I entered yet another Royal Park of London in Greenwich Park. This historic park dates back to the 15th century when it was a hunting ground for the royal family. Two centuries later, it was transformed into a public park. Today, one of the main attractions is the Royal Observatory which houses the well-known Prime Meridian Line and the Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) clock. The park is also home to the National Maritime Museum, showcasing Britain's maritime and naval history, and the Queen's House. This 17th century royal palace has a stunning spiral staircase known as the first centrally unsupported stairs built in England.
Heading towards the Greenwich Foot Tunnel, I passed the clipper ship called Cutty Sark. It was built in 1869 and designed for the tea trade between China and Britain. Renowned for its speed and endurance, the clipper set many records for the fastest voyages between the two countries. Today, it is preserved as a museum.
The foot tunnel passes beneath the River Thames, connecting Greenwich on the south bank with the Isle of Dogs on the north bank. The tunnel is cylindrical, 1,214 ft (370 m) long, and has been used since its opening in 1902. Thousands of commuters use it every day.
Arriving at Canary Wharf was like entering London's financial heartbeat with iconic skyscrapers dominating the skyline. Once part of Port of London, the area underwent a significant transformation in the 1980s and 1990s, becoming one of the world's most modern and prestigious business districts. Leading international banks, financial institutions, and professional services firms such as Barclays, Citigroup, J.P. Morgan, and KPMG are headquartered in the district. Residential towers like the elegant Newfoundland skyscraper and the cylindrical One Park Drive are also rising within the area.
After a slow promenade around the steel and glass buildings of Canary Wharf, I am moving towards the district of Bethnal Green.
I strolled through Bethnal Green, in London's East End, to check out its vibrant and eclectic cultural scene. The Paradise Row Railway Arches is a great location, where the old railway arches have been converted into trendy cafes, bakeries, breweries, or other commercial businesses. Cool bars pumping lively music into the night can be found in this industrial-looking location. Another vibrant spot is Columbia Road, lined with unique retail stores, which on a Sunday, comes to life as it bursts with a colourful flower market.
If I was to tell you I am about to visit 221B Baker Street, would you know where I am going? Any die-hard fan of the fictional detective Sherlock Holmes, created by Arthur Conan Doyle, would most likely recognise the address immediately. Lucky for me, the address is actual, and I had the pleasure of visiting the Sherlock Holmes Museum. Although the address sits between numbers 237 and 241, permission was acquired to bear the number 221B. The four-storey Georgian townhouse, once a boarding house, is set up to resemble the fictional residence of Sherlock and his partner Dr. Watson. Guides in period costumes led me through the authentic Victorian rooms filled with artifacts and memorabilia related to Sherlock, including his famous deerstalker hat and pipe.
Filled with delight after visiting Sherlock's home, my next destination was the Lord's Cricket Ground, the headquarters of Britain's primary summer sport. It was founded by Thomas Lord, a professional cricketer who, in 1814, relocated his ground to the current location in St John's Wood. One of the most famous matches played at Lord's was in 1884 between England and Australia. However, two years earlier, the two fierce competitors faced off at The Oval, with Australia winning for the first time on English soil. Four days later, a British sporting newspaper declared, "English cricket had died, and the body will be cremated and the ashes taken to Australia". A year later, The English captain Ivo Bligh was about to tour Australia and vowed to win back the ashes. A group of Aussie women, unable to contain their sense of humour, presented him with an urn holding the remains of a burnt cricket bail, and the legend of The Ashes began. Since 1927 the urn has been on display at Lord's, leaving England to tour Australia only twice. An actual trophy for The Ashes Test Series was commissioned in the 1990s in an urn shape made from Waterford Crystal. Despite the rivalry, the two teams have a lot of mutual respect. It was best summed up by former Australian captain Steve Waugh "You don't win the Ashes, you just get to hold them for a while".
Satisfied with my day's explorations, I stopped in Little Venice, a charming and picturesque spot known for its narrow canals and the lovely narrowboats that line the waterways. As the name suggests, the location is named after Venice, the famous canal city in Italy. Little Venice is at the junction of Regent's Canal and the Grand Union Canal. The narrowboats plying these waters are used as homes, offices, and even restaurants. A fun experience is the Puppet Theatre Barge, which puts on shows year-round on a floating barge. I could imagine a peaceful and relaxing cruise along the canals, taking in the scenery, travelling at my own pace, and stopping wherever I like. Even a short escape from the hustle and bustle of the city would be an ideal getaway.
Since I don't have the luxury for a getaway, I'll settle for a cuppa at a cafe operating from a narrowboat docked on the canal.
I explored the final stretch of my journey in London, where historical landmarks met modern skyscrapers and quirky hidden gems. I began in Notting Hill, where the Blue Door from the romantic comedy movie featuring Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts is located. Nearby is the Churchill Arms, a pub with pots of flowers hanging from its exterior facade setting off a kaleidoscopic burst of colors.
The Kensington Palace and its gardens, including the Sunken Garden created in memory of Princess Diana, are a short distance away. The palace is the official residence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (Prince William and Kate Middleton), formerly home to Princess Diana and Queen Victoria.
Adjacent to the palace is Hyde Park, one of the largest parks in London, featuring a large Serpentine Lake and Speaker's Corner. Buckingham Palace, the monarch's London residence and administrative headquarters, is accessible through the Wellington Arch. The palace is the location for official events and Changing of the Guard ceremonies.
10 Downing Street, home of every British Prime Minister since 1735, is across from St James Park, surrounded by significant landmarks such as the Churchill War Rooms, Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament, and Whitehall. The National Gallery in Trafalgar Square houses over 2,000 paintings, including the works of da Vinci and Rembrandt as well as Van Gogh's famous "Sunflowers". Adjacent to the gallery is St Martin's Lane, a historic street dotted with theatres, notably the London Coliseum.
The British Museum has a collection of over 8 million artifacts covering human history from the beginning to the present day. One of the most remarkable objects in its possession is the Rosetta Stone. It is an ancient stone slab inscribed with three versions of a text in ancient Greek, hieroglyphics, and Demotic (the latter two are ancient Egyptian writing systems). The Rosetta Stone was the key to unlocking the secrets of the hieroglyphs by using the Greek text to decipher it.
Parched for a drink, I looked for the secret bar called The Mayor of Scaredy Cat Town, hidden behind a retro fridge door inside The Breakfast Club restaurant.
The City of London, also known as the "Square Mile," is the centre for large financial institutions and has autonomy over many aspects of its governance and services. It features modern skyscrapers like the bullet-shaped Gherkin tower and Lloyd's avant-garde steel and glass construction with its services and circulation system outside the building.
The medieval Tower of London was a royal palace turned fortress and prison that now houses the Crown Jewels. Anne Boleyn, Henry VIII's second wife, was beheaded here after being accused of adultery and treason. This is also a great place to see the Beefeaters. Dressed in Tudor-era uniforms, they are the Tower of London's guardians, responsible for safeguarding the Crown Jewels. They also give guided tours and perform ceremonial duties on the British monarchy's behalf.
As I crossed the Tower Bridge over the River Thames, I admired its beautiful architecture. It was completed in 1894 as a bridge that could open up, allowing larger ships to pass through. Its distinctive blue and white color scheme was chosen to match the Tower of London.
Beside the river was Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, a replica of the 16th century original playhouse, an open-air amphitheatre with three levels of seating arranged in a circular shape around the stage. The thatched roof and lime plaster facade give it an authentically Elizabethan appearance.
Finally, I took a gentle spin on the London Eye for a spectacular view of London's skyline. Initially meant to be a temporary attraction at the turn of the 21st century, this giant ferris wheel has proved so popular that it has become a permanent fixture and iconic landmark.
London is a vibrant and diverse city characterised by traditional and modern architecture, endless entertainment venues, world-class museums, galleries, and canals filled with houseboats adding to the city's charm. With its many parks and gardens, London is one of the greenest cities in the world, and the River Thames just flows quietly through the city's heart.
Farewell for now.
In addition to the medal below, 5 trees will be planted in my name!
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